6th October, 2018

It was a nice, relaxed weekend, after moving accommodation once again on Friday. This state of affairs isn’t only a challenge to visitors to Porto. There was a young Portuguese couple staying at the same place, who was up from the center of the country looking for a flat; they’re moving here because the husband got a new position. They were unable to find something close to town within their budget and was being forced to go 50-60 kilometers outside of the city. What I’m hearing is that locals who want/need to move into the city for work, are unable to do so, because property owners are all letting out their flats on Airbnb, capitalizing on the tourism boom in Portugal. I guess its happening everywhere, not just in the US or UK.

On a more pleasant note, I went to an interesting exhibit on Frida Kahlo on Friday, at the Centro Portugues de Fotografia (Portuguese Center for Photography). Apart from the exhibits, which I’ll get to momentarily, the building itself was of importance. It was once a prison and the court of appeals (split equally across the building’s footprint). It was built in the 18th century and operational for 200 years; in the 1970s it was closed up, for about 20 years, then reopened as museum in 2000. The Kahlo exhibit wasn’t of her paintings, but a collection of her personal photographs, some taken by her, others by her parents and friends. I liked how the exhibit was set up, almost in chronological order and each component focusing on particular area of meaning to FK. Well worth seeing if you’re visiting Portugal! Apart from this, the center has a tremendous collection of photography equipment…I’ve never seen that many cameras in one place before…even a camera store! The top floors of the building used to be a women’s prison and there’s a permanent female-focused exhibit…each frame is place above an original cell!

Saturday was a lovely day spent in the Douro valley. Did you know it is the oldest wine region in the world? Of course, I tried lots of different wines and port, but I also get to see the harvest, which is going on until the 13th, and was lucky enough to visit the cask room and see the stone vats where the grapes are crushed. The valley is verdant and hilly…everything you’d expect a wine growing region to be. However, you’ll notice from the photos, this region may be a bit different that others you’ve visited. Due the the very steep terrain, the vines had to be planted in terraces, created by the dry stacking of the local shale/slate, which is called schist.

After visiting the winery, which is owned by two sisters. we had a crackin’ lunch at a local family run restaurant. Another culinary first…chorizo smoked in and with bay leaves! Eyes-roll-back-in-your-head delicious..if you’re a carnivore! Why do the Portuguese eat so much meat, bread and potatoes! Salad, I need salad!